The Other 46

Originated in Southern Québec, ice cider (or cidre de glace in French) is a dessert wine made from apples and concentrated by natural winter cold.  There are two approaches to producing ice wine according to Wikipedia: cryoconcentration and cryoextraction. “Cryoconcentration involves harvesting the fruits late in season and leaving them in fresh storage until late December, when they are pressed and the fresh juice is left to freeze naturally. In January, the concentrated juice begins the process of cold fermentation. Cryoextraction is similar to the traditional method used to produce ice wine: apples are left on the trees, at the mercy of the weather, until the end of January. They are picked when the temperature hovers around -8°C to -15°C, and then pressed and left to cold ferment for months.”

Inspired after a trip to Montreal, Albert and Eleanor Leger decided to start Eden Orchards and Eden Ice Cider Company in the winter of 2007.  Located on what was an abandoned dairy farm in West Charleston, Vermont, the business currently consists of 800 apple trees and a small pressing operation and bonded winery in the basement of the rebuilt farmhouse.  They currently produce 3 ice ciders, in addition to an apple wine, all from 100% traditional and heirloom varieties of apples in Vermont.

Their flagship blend, the Eden “Calville Blend” Vermont Ice Cider is produced from 11 apple varieties including Empire, MacIntosh, Roxbury Russett, Calville Blanc, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Hudson’s Gem, Ashmead’s Kernel, Esopus Spitzenberg, Black Oxford, Belle de Boskoop and Reinette.  The ice cider retails for $25 (375ml).

Seducing aromas of apples and apricot, one can’t help but conjure up thoughts of a fresh baked apple pie.  Or to keep it local, a nice Vermont cheese and nuts would pair perfectly.  On the palate, distinct apple flavors with a pinch of lemon and pear.  Wonderful complexity, sweetness and acidity make the Calville Blend an instant classic destined for greatness.

The hardest decision at the end of the day can sometimes be the wine choice.  Whether selecting a wine to pair with dinner, or simply finding a wine to enjoy on its own, the decision can be daunting. The other night I wanted a glass of wine to pair alongside a veggie flatbread pizza.  Nothing fancy, just a good, simple wine.

I’m not certain where I purchased the wine, but I decided to open a red blend from Sawtooth Winery. Located in Nampa, Idaho, Sawtooth Winery produces a number of estate wines that are widely distributed and available locally across the US.  I’m a fan of their whites and reserve line of wines and was excited to try this one.

The Sawtooth Skyline Red 2005 is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Syrah, 10% Merlot and 5% Primativo.  The Syrah shines through on the nose with aromas of black fruit, spice and smoke.  The palate is medium to full-bodied, round and smooth with currant, blackberry, earth and subtle coffee notes.  The perfect pizza wine that’s easy on the wallet.

Over the holidays, I tasted a number of wines from the other 46 states, with a Bordeaux-style blend leaving a lasting impression.  The wine, the Yonah Mountain Vineyards 2006 Genesis, is produced by Yonah Mountain Vineyards.  I’ve written about their wines a number of times (read more here), and each time I come away more impressed.  Still a relative newcomer in the growing North Georgia wine scene, winemaker Joe Smith has helped push the winery into the wine spotlight with their premier blend Genesis.

The wine is made up of 51% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Mourvedre. In the glass, the dark purple wine starts off with a nose of black cherries, plum and spice.  On the palate, bright red fruit, plum, and tobacco.  Well-integrated tannin and oak on the finish.  On day 2, the wine displayed more earthy qualities.  Easily one of the more complex and balanced wines I’ve had to date from the state.

By no means is this a cheap wine, and at $40 (sold out), the Genesis is one of the highest priced wines from the state.  But if you have the appetite for a local wine that delivers depth, balance and finesse, then I recommend you try the Genesis. Cheers!